My week spent in Chile was beautiful - the landscapes, the people, the food of course – nonetheless, much of my time spent there was inevitably a long experiment in comparison-contrast, and reaffirmed my belief that I chose the right place to study.
We arrived in the Santiago airport on Friday after a delay and a hefty dose of paranoia, courtesy of everyone in the airport wearing swine-flu-masks. We immediately hopped on a bus to Valparaíso, the second largest city in Chile. We arrived just after a pretty sunset over the mountains and went into the center for food. It was a día feriado (how do you say that in English? I guess a holiday) so most things were closed. However, with a little effort, we found an French place open and ordered fondu. Halfway through our meal we were the only people in the place, so we (and, by we, I mean I because my friends often have me do the talking/initiating) invited the waiter to sit and chat with us. So over my chocolate beer and delish chicken fondu (gracias, Chile), we talked to David about who knows what. We discovered in him something that we noticed in the demeanor of Chileans throughout our trip, which was a very laid back matter of fact way of conversing. It was particularly noticeable in contrast of the animated style in Buenos Aires. David invited us out to Café Journal, apparently the most well known bar in Viña del Mar (Viña and Valpo are kind of like twin-cities, but on the ocean and Latinamerican), but we were tired from traveling so we said maybe we’d stop by the next night.
Sooo the next day we went to one of my travel buddy’s friend’s Chilean hostparents’ home (sorry, I know) for a lunch. They were so generous to have invited us four girls in the first place, and then on top of that the meal was incredible. We consumed empanades de pino, fish, avacado, and pisco sour, all among lovely people – it was just perfect and reinforced my loving-Chileans feeling. Hit up some artisan markets and then in the evening walked around Cerro Alegre, a hill famous for its bohemian vibe and good food. We ate at a restaurant over-looking the water, where I had some fresh, spicy seafood soup. All of this came at a price that I know I will never be able to enjoy again in my life. So then we returned to the French place, which was just down the hill and closed out the place. A bunch of the waiters’ friends came and then we went to some bar, where this guy was talking to me about how we’re killing the planet and he wants to create an eco-friendly hostel. It was one of the most random nights ever, but very interesting. It all had the ‘can’t catch it’ traveling vibe that I’ve come to love.
Next day went back to Cerro Alegre again to see it in the light and were all impressed by the street art that covers every corner there. Then hopped over to another cerro (hill) to see one of Pablo Neruda’s houses. It had amazing views and was filled with eclectic items. Hell, I could be a freaking world-renowned poet in a place like that….
I could have spent more time in Valpo, but we ended up spending about two and a half days there and then about four and a half in Santiago. Many people had told me that you only want to spend a couple of days in Santiago, but I think we found plenty to explore. We got there just as daylight was winding down the first night, but it was just in time to see Cerro Santa Lucia before it closed. They were about to kick us out, but we pleaded with the guards to let us up the top and them one of them ended up basically giving us a tour of the sights. We got a magnificent view of the city by night and it was another fine example of the Chilean hospitality. He told us that we were very simpáticas (nice), but it was definitely he who was simpático. From there spent some time in an artisan market, where one man had a long talk with my friend and me about the financial state and what that means for Chileans and artisans and then he proceeded to make me a pin with my name on it (sort of – without the h – there’s a heart the could be perceived as an h). It was another simpatico Chilean encounter and I got some sweet earrings.
Also in Santiago – saw another Neruda house, went up the biggest Cerro with a sweeping, smoggy view, went out for pisco sours/dancing…walked A LOT, ate unbelievably fresh fruit and avacado… toured either the oldest or second oldest winery in Chile, did a gorgeous hike on the outskirts of the city…. So I guess I can see how you could spend less time there, but part of what made our stay there so easy and enjoyable was our hostel, which included banana-apple pancakes every morning and twice provided free-spicy-veggie-pasta dinner. It was YUM – perfect for us food-fanatics – and helped cut costs. I would recommend Hostel Sammy to anyone who goes to Santiago. It wasn’t right in the center, but it was near a metro stop, and in order to get there you pass through rows and rows of universities, which was fun for us. By the way, metros (subways) in Santiago are beautiful and efficient. Well done, Chile. Also, in Hostal Sammy, I made a new friend named Bob. He is a previously stray kitten who was taken into the hostel just a few days before us. Besides being cute in general, he also would jump in the sink while I was brushing my teeth and bat at the dripping faucet that wouldn’t close all the way. This is one of the many ways that I probably contracted the swine flu on my journeys…
The street food and crowded areas probably didn’t help either. Today, back in Buenos Aires, I walked through parque tres de febrero around the lake. It was lleno de gente singing, drumming, playing and lounging. This was after I had walked through the jardin botanico on my way over, where I sat on the ground and listened to a free guitar concert. Not a bad week, eh? I suppose I’ll return to the real world at some point.
Con mucho cariño,
Sarah
Andes
Santiago at night, guided by a park guard
Pablo's casa
Cerro Alegre
swine flu? why am I always the last to know?
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